Two of the best meals I ate in Paris were at the same restaurant! It’s called Oenosteria – they don’t have a website – the address is 40 Rue Gregoire de Tours in the 6th arrondissement. It just happened to be a couple doors down from Hotel de Fleurie where I was staying. I went in there the night we ate at Astrance for lunch – and since the lunch was a multi-course feast I wanted something light and was very happy to have a simple plate of Italian meats and cheeses. It was just what I wanted!
There I met Marco and Silveria who were behind the counter – they were fabulous and I loved getting to speak Italian in Paris! The next night, because I had loved Oenosteria so much I decided to go back and eat something else. This time the counter was full so I sat at a small table and had the special pasta of the day – Ravioli with a Gorgonzola sauce. It was so delicious and rich and decadent! I met a group of guys – Mierko, Danilo, Federico and Michael who work for Etro, an Italian apparel company. They were really fun and we had a great time talking about food and fashion in Milan and Paris.
I enjoyed Oenesteria so much, the next night I decided to take a chance on another Italian restaurant in the area and found one that was packed called Del Papa. I looked online and saw that it’s a chain which raised a red flag but it was so crowded I thought maybe it was so great they kept creating more places…wrong. The fish appetizer was awful, I tried to leave but the waiter said he had already put in the entree order. I replied that I hoped it was better than the appetizer… When a massive plate of mediocre pasta arrived at the table it was evident that Italians are not running the kitchen. I’m sure there is great Italian food to be found in Paris but this chain is not in that group – steer clear!
My last full day in Paris I went to the Paris flea market called the Marche aux Puces which is located in the outskirts of Paris. It’s a great place to spend a day wandering amongst all the shops. Open Saturday and Sunday – some shops are also open on Monday. There’s many groups of shops but my favorite is Le Marche Vernaison which starts at 99 Rue des Rosiers. There’s over 200 shops to browse through and you can get some great deals! Highly recommend! I went to another antique shop with vintage French ceramics called Au Bain Marie in the heart of the 6th arrondissement but it was Much more expensive than the Marche aux Puces. At mid-day I wandered down the street and found a place I’d read about called Le Bistrot Paul Bert. They don’t have an official website but the address is 18 Rue Paul Bert. I had escargot and the pate de maison. I highly recommend this restaurant! It was so good that after shopping I went back for dinner!
Next up – I just returned from Jazz Fest in New Orleans and I’m going to share with you some great places to eat in the Big Easy…